Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their children do not want to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to learn these tales and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
